The highlight of our trip to Mostar was without a doubt our visit to the beautiful Sufi Monastery: Blagaj Tekke.

Located a short 20-minute drive away from Mostar in the village of Blagaj, the Blagaj Tekke sits at the base of a cliff on the beautiful Buna river, in the most serene surroundings.

Blagaj Tekke Bosnia

river buna, mostar, blagaj tekke, bosnia

It is not actually known when the Blagaj Tekke was first built, but the first public record of its existence dates back to 1164, when Ottoman explorer Evlija Celebija made reference to the already well-established Tekke in his travelogues.

The Tekke was an important place for Muslim worshipers, who would visit the Tekke to spend time in solitude to perform Dhikr (remembrance of God). To this day, the Tekke continues to host Dhikr sessions and you can even sit in on them!

blagaj tekke, mostar, bosnia

The Tekke has been renovated numerous times over the years as the location (below the cliff) meant the structure was prone to damage from falling rocks. The last renovation took place as recent as 2013 and the tekke has grown in popularity over the years.

Blagaj Tekke, Sufi Monastery, Bosniablagaj tekke, mostar, bosnia
Whilst the inside of the Tekke is small and simple, it’s not hard to imagine why this place was favoured by worshipers for so long. The location and setting of the Tekke transports you elsewhere, the beauty of the surrounding nature and the simplicity of the structure results in a clear, untainted vision; the perfect setting for reflection and solitude.

The waters of the Buna river are so inviting here that people often kneel down to take a sip from the clear flowing water!

Bosnia, mostar, blagaj tekke, river bunablaggage tekke, mostar, bosnia

Getting There

There is a bus you can take from Mostar (number 11) that will take you there, but we opted to take a taxi instead. Our taxi driver offered to wait for us for an hour to ensure we had a return journey back (we didn’t see any cabs there and it’s a little cut-off from the city to be stranded in). It cost 40marks for our return journey and an hour was plenty of time for us to enjoy the area.

Mostar, Bosnia, Blagaj Tekke
What To Do

There are a number of restaurants and cafes on the riverbank along the Buna river all offering views of the Tekke. Tourists are permitted to enter the Blagaj Tekke and surrounding courtyard for just 4 marks each. You will be required to remove your shoes if you wish to enter the monastery itself. I highly recommend entering to get a feel for the amazing solitude you feel in this place (and to see the views from the windows!)

river buna, mostar, bosnia, blagaj tekke

The Best Views

The most famous picture of the Tekke on Google is actually taken from the riverbank on the opposite side of the river (facing the tekke directly). We found it a little difficult to find the exact location (as it was hidden behind a restaurant!) – just remember that it’s on the opposite side of the Tekke near the carpark, you may need to climb some tiny hollowed-out steps carved from the rocks to get there. If you can’t find your way don’t be afraid to ask the restaurant staff for help!

The Blagaj Tekke is beautiful and well worth a stop if you’re in Bosnia.

Visting Sarajevo too? I’ve put together a Sarajevo guide you may find interesting!

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Blagaj Tekke, Mostar, Bosnia,


Mostar offers the kind of scenery that makes you do a double-take in disbelief the first time you lay eyes on it… The stunning imagery of the Stari Most bridge suspended over the brilliant jade-green Neretva river is something straight out of a fairytale. No matter how modern the surrounding restaurants and ice cream stalls look in photos; it is easy to think Mostar is otherworldly.

Mostar Stari Most Bridge

Indeed, a photo I posted of Mostar’s beautiful Neretva river is my most liked photo on Instagram and it resulted in a ton of inbox questions about how people could go and see it for themselves.

There’s no denying it, Mostar has an other-worldly charm. It was a city I’ve longed to see ever since I first set eyes on the bridge many many years ago, naturally, I knew it had to be a stop during our Bosnia-Croatia road trip.

We arrived in Mostar after a hot and sweaty 3-hour bus journey from Sarajevo. The train connecting the two cities (often credited as being one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world) was out of service meaning the coach was our next best option. Though slightly uncomfortable in the early summer heat, it still offered breath-taking views like these (that’s the train track by the way!):

After dumping our bags at the hotel, we ventured into the old town to catch the sunset. Crowds of tourists in the city for a day trip were slowly making their way back to their coaches. We climbed the slippery pebble stones and made our way to the centre of the bridge to take in the view. The sun was sinking slowly in the distance, back-lighting the minaret of the mosque and bouncing off the jade-green waters below.

It was breathtaking, and without a doubt, one of the most beautiful and serene sights I’ve ever seen.

As the sun slipped away we headed for dinner at a local restaurant, then made our way up and down the two main touristy streets of the city. The later it got in the evening, the quieter it became. With all the day trip tours departed, locals descended on the old town, filling restaurants and brandishing ice creams for a late night treat. The street cats emerged for a spot of petting and the old town was quiet.

We only spent two nights in Mostar, and looking back, I think we could have even done it in a single night. There simply isn’t very much to do in Mostar. The old town is tiny, just two small main roads to wander through surrounded by residential homes. There aren’t many Museums or attractions to see either. The newer parts of the town (which we ventured to for dinner one evening) are just as you imagine any other Balkan city to be.

Mostar Bosnia Old Town

Whilst Mostar did suffer considerable damage during the war, it wasn’t as visible as it seemed to be in Sarajevo. You’ll find the odd bullet-ridden wall here and there, damaged empty buildings line the backstreets of the old town, but Mostar has been largely restored a lot better than Sarajevo has. It has an entirely different vibe about it.

Mostar Bosnia © Come Fly With B [] | Mostar Old Town

If you’re visiting Mostar I highly recommend watching this BBC documentary for some context on what this city lived through just 20 something years ago. The Stari Most was entirely destroyed by Croat military forces in 93, and what we see today is a restoration completed as recent as 2004.

For the remainder of our trip, we wandered around the old town mostly, but there was very little to do, we ventured into the newer parts of Mostar for curiosities sake. On our second day in Mostar we made a quick trip to Blagaj Tekke, a Sufi Monastery a 20-minute drive away from Mostar – a very welcome escape from the crowds in the city!

Would I visit Mostar again?

Maybe. It was the city I was most excited to see during our road trip; but it was just a lot smaller and busier than I imagined it to be, with a lot less to do. Mostar is a very popular destination for tourists visiting Croatia and Montenegro – given the short drive, it makes a perfect day trip for these travellers – many of whom are travelling aboard cruise ships. This means the city gets extremely busy during the afternoon hours and can feel a bit unbearable at times, particularly considering the terrain of the old town is largely very slippery pebbles (meaning it takes everyone longer to get around!) and the majority of tourists seemed to be elderly.

Mostar Bosnia

© Come Fly With B [] | Mostar Old Town


We visited in May before the start of the high-season for cruise ships in Croatia and by 11 am the old town was packed with tour groups. The evenings are definitely a lot quieter and more bearable. This can easily be remedied by exploring Blagaj Tekke during the morning or afternoon and heading back to Mostar later in the day.

Blagaj Tekke Bosnia

Don’t let my feelings put you off. Mostar is one of the places you need to see, and I’m glad I did. Ask me about Sarajevo though, and I’d go back in a heartbeat.

How To Get There

From Sarajevo: You can get to Mostar by train, coach or by driving.If you had to choose between the coach or train, don’t pass up the train journey. With tracks running above water, the views on the train journey are breathtaking. Find out the train schedules here.

To get there by coach, you can either purchase your tickets online at Get By Bus or buy them in person at the Sarajevo Coach Terminal. We found some of the times advertised as “Sold Out” online were, in fact, available for purchase at the bus terminal. We paid 41 marks for two coach tickets (and a euro per piece of luggage stored), the journey takes an average of 2.5 hours. The views on the journey are beautiful so keep your camera at hand. Sit on the left-hand side of the coach for the best views!

© Come Fly With B [] | Mostar-Sarajevo coach

You can also hire a private driver to drive you to Mostar for the day. Rates vary but you can find plenty of recommendations on the TripAdvisor travel forums.

If you’re visiting Mostar from Croatia you can get there by coach from Dubrovnik in 3 hours, don’t forget to bring your passport for cross-border entry!

Where To Stay

There are plenty of small B&B’s and hotels dotted about in the centre of the old town. We stayed at the Shangri-La Mansion hotel, a basic but clean hotel a 5-minute walk away from the Stari Most. It was close enough to wander in and out of town and quiet for a restful sleep. Just bear in mind this hotel is at the top of a very steep hill so not at all ideal if you have mobility problems or if you are travelling with young children/a pushchair.

 Where To Eat

Mostar’s old town is tiny compared to the one in Sarajevo so food options are limited. We didn’t find any bakeries in the old town, most of the restaurants seemed to be rather overpriced & focused on day-trip tourists (odd opening times).

Cevapi In Mostar, Bosnia
On our first night we ate at Cevabdzinica Tima, the food was average but the host was wonderful and super friendly. Cevapi is served differently in Mostar with a side of yummy red pepper dip, Ajvar. For brunches, we opted for omelettes at Urban Grill – and we ended up returning for burgers when we got sick of Cevapi.

On our final night in Mostar, we decided to venture out of the old town towards newer parts of the city. We walked to a mall in about half an hour and I’m glad we did, it was great to see Mostar’s city side outside of the fairytale bubble of the old town. In the mall, we found all the shops you’d expect to find in Europe, and McDonald’s (halal too!)

Bosnia has some of the best ice-cream I’ve ever eaten so don’t visit without sampling it!

Local supermarkets can be found a 15-20 min walk outside the old town.

The Best Views

The most famous location for the iconic views of the Stari Most nestled above the Neretva river come from the minaret of the tiny little Koski Mehmed Pasha mosque opposite. Tourists are welcome to visit the mosque and climb the minaret to take photos from the balcony, you may need to pay a small fee to do this. The minaret is super tight (it’s almost impossible for two people to pass each other on it!) so it might be best to make a little noise to warn people you’re coming up!

stari most mostar bridge
Another great place to take pictures of the bridge is actually from one of the restaurants nestled along the riverfront. The Urban Grill restaurant looks a little casual and run down, but it’s home to a beautiful outdoor dining area offering breathtaking views of the river and bridge. We ended up eating here twice during our visit and couldn’t get enough of the view.

This place gets completely packed in the mornings and throughout the day when all the tour groups are in town (you may find yourself turned away due to a lack of space), but it quietens down towards the evenings. We enjoyed visiting for tea and pancakes and watching the sunset in the distance (bonus points for being empty!)

One last thing…

This is important if you want to make the most of your time in Mostar – Wear comfortable shoes with a good grip!

Leave those pretty sandals at home unless you want aching feet ruining your day! The pebble-stones that line the streets of the old-town are very uncomfortable under-foot so you’ll appreciate all the cushioning you can get. The Stari Most itself is incredibly slippery when dry and even worse in the rain – trainers will be your best friend!

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Guide To Mostar, Bosnia - A Hidden Gem In Eastern Europe Offering Fairytale Views At Every Corner © Come Fly With B []


Sarajevo has so much to offer, particularly if you’re interested in history and culture. We spent three days exploring the city during our Bosnia-Croatia trip in May, but we’re already making plans to return to see more of this incredible city.

If you’re visiting and not quite sure where to start; here’s a list of 10 things to do in Sarajevo!

Step back in time and walk the length of the main road connecting the airport to the old city

One of the best ways to understand the city of Sarajevo, and it’s history, is to walk it. Through a single road you can relive the various eras that has made this city into the melting pot it is.

From the traditional Ottoman architecture adorning the streets, to the grand Austro-Hungarian inspired buildings, and the very spot where Franz Ferdinand was assisinated; an act that led to the start of World War 1. Sarajevo’s history as part of Yugoslavia is perhaps the most visible, followed by an era of hope and rebuilding ; modern day Sarajevo.

sarajevo library
miljacka river sarajevo

 Explore the cobbled streets of the old town Baščaršija

The old town of Baščaršija possesses an air of magic. Despite it being a tourist spot, it feels much more authentic than ones you would find in Istanbul or even Mostar. The old town in Sarajevo is simple and still very much populated by locals. The Ottoman influence in Sarajevo is most evident here, through the mosques and little coffee shops dotted about, and it’s the place to go for souvenirs, trinkets and traditional Bosnian copper goods.

Visit the 16th Century Gazi Husarev Mosque

Located in the old town, the Gazi Husarev mosque is one of the most important Ottoman structures in the Balkans, and the most important Ottoman monument in Sarajevo. Built in the 16th century, the mosque has served as a place of worship and community hub for centuries. It was the first mosque in the world to get electricity – how cool is that?

Gazi Husarev Mosque Sarajevo

Learn about the Screbenica genocide at Galerija 11/07/95 

You cannot visit Sarajevo without noticing the very visible scars left behind by the Bosnian war of the early 90’s. Whilst Sarajevo was famous for it’s siege, the city of Srebenica was the scene of the worst genocide in Europe since WW2. Over 8000+ Muslim men and women were massacred and buried in mass graves. With thousands of people still missing and bodies yet to be found, recovery efforts are ongoing until today, 22 years later.

Galerija 11/07/95 documents the genocide and the efforts of families to find their loved ones two decades on through photos and short films. I highly recommend getting the audio tour ( I think it was something silly like 3 marks only!) to gain a better understanding. If you don’t manage to finish the Gallery in a single day, you can reuse your ticket for entry the next day – just hold on to it.











Visit the “tunnel of hope” that kept the city alive during the siege

Built during the siege on Sarajevo, the Tunel spasa, also known as “The Tunnel of Hope” is an underground tunnel connecting Sarajevo with the neighbouring towns of Butmir and Dobrinja. The tunnel was built under a civilian home by the Bosnian army and runs under the runway of Sarajevo airport!

It was a lifeline for the besieged city, and was used to transport soldiers, civilians, UN staff, weapons, supplies and food in and out of the city. In the museum you can even enter and walk part of the original tunnel.

tunel spasa tunnel of hope

Have coffee in a tree house!

The hills surrounding Sarajevo lend themselves to excellent vantage points over the city, you just need to be ready for the hike!

If you’re looking for somewhere to give you a great vantage point of the Miljacka river and some of the tourist spots, be sure to visit the Viewpoint cafe. Located close to the old town, this basic cafe allows you to sit in a glass-fronted room between trees overlooking the city.

Walk the Olympic Bobsleigh/Luge tracks

In 1984, Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympics for the first time, and Mount Trebević was home to the new Bobsleigh/luge tracks. It was a period of hope for Sarajevo, nothing could ever prepare Sarajevans for what would happen less than 10 years later. During the siege on Sarajevo, the abandoned Olympic tracks became an artillery position for the Serbian army because of their vantage point overlooking the city.

Today, the bobsleigh tracks are a canvas for the local art scene, covered in bright graffiti. We walked part of the length of the tracks in awe, this was definitely one the highlights of our visit to Sarajevo!

Sarajevo olympics luge bobsleigh tracks

Sample some Cevapi

Arguably Bosnia’s most famous dish; Cevapi consists of small kofta fingers served alongside bread and finely chopped onion. You’ll find this dish everywhere in Sarajevo – in fact you may struggle to find restaurants that don’t serve it! Averaging at around 7 marks a generous portion, this dish is both filling and cheap to fuel you for long days of exploring. There’s a lot of talk about the best Cevapi place (plenty of online debates about this) but the best of the three places we tried was Cevabdzinica Zeljo located in the old town.

See the best views of the city from atop Mount Trebević

If you’re after good aerial views, Mount Trebević is the place to go. We stopped by an abandoned military hotel that had the most incredible views of the city, enabling us to get our bearings and see all the sights from above.

Sarajevo Mont Tribevic

Relax with some Bosnian Coffee!

When you’re obsessed with coffee, trying it in all the countries you visit is obligatory right?

Well, you’re in luck in Sarajevo, because they’re obsessed with their coffee and super proud of it! Traditional Bosnian coffee is quite similar to Turkish coffee, served in tiny brass cased cups with Turkish delight and sugar cubes. If you like sugar in your coffee in Bosnia you dip the sugar cube directly into your coffee, and suck on the cube rather than stirring it into your coffee!

Some info on Tours…

I highly recommend booking a tour to visit some of the places listed above to save yourself the hassle of figuring out routes, and to gain a better understanding of the city of Sarajevo and the historical context of some of the places listed.

We booked the “Sarajevo Total Siege tour” with with Sarajevo Funky Tours, that enabled us to see the Olympic bobsleigh/luge tracks, Mount Trebević and Tunel Spasa in half a day.

The tour included a pick up from our hotel, transport and two excellent local guides who painted a very personal image of life under siege in Sarajevo. Our main tour guide was in her early 20’s when the siege broke out and she recounted vivid stories of the struggles through starvation and war. Our driver was just a teenager at the time, and was shot by a sniper in “sniper alley”, it was surreal watching him point out the exact location of the shooting as he drove through it some twenty years later. This is a tour not to be missed.